Canada's Atlantic Coast: Nova Scotia Nova Scotia may be the second smallest of the Canadian provinces but it is huge on natural beauty, music and history. Come and tag along on our two-week roadtrip around the province.

Getting there
We traveled with our car on the CAT Ferry which runs non-stop from Portland, Maine to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia in 5.5 hours.

Ferry staff direct vehicles onto the ferry quickly and efficiently, with trucks first and small cars last.	As the CAT starts its trip, passengers stand outside on the observation deck and watch the Maine coastline go by.	Breakfast, lunch and snacks are served in the lounge.

While the ferry is fast, the trip isn't guaranteed to be smooth. Once the ferry moved away from the sheltered coast, we encountered turbulence. If you are prone to motion sickness, you'll want to have your favorite remedy handy. Some good tips for preventing motion sickness are: stay in the fresh air (above deck) and keep a full stomach - began the day with a heavy breakfast such as pancakes (not much syrup) and eat lots of saltine-type crackers along the way.

Upon arrival in Yarmouth, be prepared for a long wait (an hour or more) to go through Customs.

The northern shore of Nova Scotia is bounded by the Bay of Fundy, known for its scenic beauty and its dramatic daily tidal surges. The fertile Annapolis Valley has been settled and farmed for over 400 years.

Valleyview Provincial Park in Bridgetown. The park is situated on top of North Mountain, offering expansive views across Annapolis Valley.

The Grand Pré National Historic Site in Grand Pré, which commemorates the Acadian people who settled here and their deportation by the British in 1755. Start with the excellent short film shown in the visitors center which provides historical context for the site, then move on to explore the grounds at your own pace.

A statue of Evangeline, from Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's poem about the Acadian deportation, stands in front of a small stone church.	The church showcases the history of the people, including tablets etched with the names of the Acadian families who lived here.
The grounds also contain vegetable gardens, a blachsmith shop and an apple orchard. If the apples are ripe, you may get a taste.	Look out over land that the Acadians drained, diked and farmed. Imagine their lives here.

Experience the Bay of Fundy tides. The Bay of Fundy has the largest tidal surges on earth. At low tide, the sea floor is exposed from Nova Scotia across to New Bruswick. Six hours later, when the tide comes in, the bay fills up like a bathtub with billions of gallons of water.

For a dramatic example of the tidal effect, one of the best places to go is Evangeline Beach near Grand Pré.
	Bay of Funday at low tide.	Bay of Funday at high tide (6 hours later).

When the tide is low, go for a walk on the muddy sea floor... or fly a kite.

Fishing boats are staying put until the tide comes in.
	At low tide, waiting.	An hour later, the tide is rolling in.

Domaine de Grand Pré winery and vineyard. Nova Scotia produces superb wines. Domaine de Grand Pré specializes in uncommon grape varieties that grow well in the Nova Scotia climate. Give them a try! The wine shop offers tastings, and you can stroll through the vineyard on your own.

Tangled Garden in Grand Pré produces herbed jellies, jams, chutneys and vinegars. All the herbs are grown organically on the property. Visitors are welcome to walk through the gardens and the wildflower labyrinth. I recommend sampling some of their herbed ice cream while you stroll around. You can purchase Tangled Garden products in the enticingly aromatic shop. The ginger-lime-thyme jelly is knock-your-socks-off good!

Foxhill Cheese in Port Williams. Located on a dairy farm, fresh milk is piped straight from the dairy to the cheese production building. In the cheese shop you can taste samples of all their cheeses, as well as their own homemade gelato and ice cream. For a squeaky treat, try the fresh curds.

Digby scallops. The port of Digby is home to one of the world's largest scallop fleets. What better place to taste Digby's specialty than in Digby itself, at Royal Fundy Seafood Market. Scallops need to be cooked just right - if overcooked scallops become rubbery. They know how to do it here. Mighty tasty! We happened to arrive in Digby during the Wharf Rat Rally, an annual event for motorcycle enthusiasts.

Lobster at Hall's Harbour. The fishing community of Hall's Harbour has one of the best places to eat lobster in Nova Scotia at the Hall's Harbour Lobster Pound. Dining here is as simple as ...

Paddy's Pub in Wolfville. Paddy's offers its own line of microbrews and a decent pub menu. Wolfville is home to Acadia University and Paddy's is popular with the university crowd.

The Library Pub in Wolfville at 472 Main Street. Down the block from Paddy's and upstairs from the Coffee Merchant, the Library Pub has a dark and woody atmosphere. Just the place to go after dinner for a wee dram and some journal-writing about the day's activities.

We stayed comfortably at the Evangeline Inn in Grand Pré. The inn is located close to the Grand Pré Historic Site and Domaine de Grand Pré. Breakfast is served in the café. Try the very tasty homemade pear and ginger marmalade. If you are lucky, they'll have jars of marmalade for sale (we weren't lucky - otherwise we would have snapped up a couple of jars to take home).
	The Inn was the boyhood home of Sir Robert Borden, Prime Minister of Canada 1911-1920.	A beautiful perennial garden borders the casual Evangeline Café.

On our way to Cape Breton Island, we stayed overnight in Antigonish and explored some of Central Nova Scotia.

The Cape George Loop scenic drive. Following the road all the way to Cape George Point will take you to the Cape George Lighthouse where you'll find views across to Cape Breton Island and Prince Edward Island on a clear day.

Near Cape George Point is the fishing village of Ballantyne's Cove, home to the Tuna Interpretive Center. Tuna interpretation? Our curiosity is piqued! The Center is located at the marina. Too bad for us, it's closed when we arrive.

John Walsh Bagpipes in Antigonish. If you like celtic music, here's your chance to learn all about bagpipes (no piping skills required!). The friendly staff will show you their custom handmade bagpipes and take you behind-the-scenes to the workshop where their bagpipes are crafted.

The impressive Pomquet Beach, east of Antigonish on St. Georges Bay. A series of boardwalks leading from the parking area to the beach protects the extensive but fragile dune ecosystem and the shorebirds that breed here. A word of caution - mosquitos around the boardwalks are tenacious.

Gabrieau's Bistro in downtown Antigonish is a favorite with locals for an upscale meal.

We were warmly welcomed at the Rose and Thistle B&B in Antigonish. Hosts Jim and Marleen designed their home with a B&B in mind so guest rooms are thoughtfully prepared for travelers' needs. Breakfast is served in the dining room with large windows offering a wonderful view of nearby farmland and Antigonish Harbour.

With abundant natural beauty and a lively celtic music scene, Cape Breton Island was a highlight of our trip.

The Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Judique. Cape Breton Island is brimming with live music and the exhibit room here will give you a quick introduction to the Cape Breton style of music. Interactive exhibits explain the different types of tunes you'll hear, and you can give fiddling or stepdancing a try. The gift shop has a wide selection of CDs for sale.

The Glenora Distillery in Glenville is the only single malt whisky distillery in North America. Visitors can take a guided distillery tour which ends with a whisky tasting. The tour, and the whisky, are not as satisfying as what you'll find in Scotland, but they make for a pleasant diversion on a rainy afternoon.

If you like offbeat attractions, you'll enjoy Joe's Scarecrow Village, a peculiar collection of costumed scarecrows. Scarecrow Village is located on the Cabot Trail south of Chéticamp.

Following the Cabot Trail through Chéticamp will take you to the extraordinary Cape Breton Highlands National Park. If you have just one day here, allow 8-10 hours to explore. You will be richly rewarded for the time you spend.

The Cabot Trail continues through the park with jaw-dropping coastal views at every turn.

While you can drive your way around the park, it's even better to stop the car and venture on foot to explore the remarkable natural diversity of the park up-close. Numerous trails offer walking and hiking opportunities for all abilities, from easy half-mile loops to more challenging climbs.

On the Bog Trail, a boardwalk takes you through a highland bog.

The Lone Shieling Trail winds along a stream and through old growth sugar maple trees that sparkle in the sunlight.

The Jack Pine Trail passes through hardy jack pines, growing in what looks like an inhospitable environment, and out to the coast.

If you leave the Cabot Trail (and the park) at Cape North, you can enjoy the northernmost part of Cape Breton Island by following the road (which goes from paved to rocky dirt) to the small community of Meat Cove where another spectacular view awaits.

En route outside the park is the sublimely beautiful Cabot's Landing Provincial Park on Aspy Bay.

Explore more of Cape Breton's natural bounty on a guided hike with Bethsheila Kent, an expert on the island's natural history, flora and fauna. Along the Red Island Trail there was always something to see and learn about - birds and animals, trees, mosses and lichens, fungi, flowers, geology.

Bethsheila's dog joined us and faithfully led the way.	We pause to look out on a barachois.
Bethsheila points out a fresh moose track.	Birdwatching from a rocky coastal beach.

A great inland hike, in the Baddeck area, is the Uisge Ban Falls trail. The name Uisge Ban is gaelic for "white water" and is pronounced "ish-ka-ban". The well-maintained trail leads through hardwood forest to the 50-foot waterfall, making for a satisfying hike every step of the way.

History comes alive at the exceptional Louisbourg National Historic Site, a reconstruction of the 1744 Fortress Louisburg. Plan on spending a full day here.

Costumed interpreters dive into the lives of people who actually lived and worked here and eagerly answer questions about daily fortress life and business.

In an historical reenactment of a public humiliation, a man is found guilty of stealing a bottle of wine and sentenced to two hours in the iron collar.

People gather as the charge is read aloud. In his defense, the man claims he drank the wine and returned the bottle.	Others taunt him as he is marched down the road.	He is shackled in the iron collar and faces more public insults.

Visitors to the fortress can dine in period resataurants which served separate classes of fortress inhabitants. At the lower-class restaurant, lunch at communal tables is a bowl of soup with bread and cheese.

Only a small part of the fortress has been reconstructed. Visitors can wander the rest of the site on the Ruins Walk.

A trip to Cape Breton Island isn't complete without some live music and if you can go to only one event, choose the Baddeck Gathering Ceilidh. This fun and lively event combines music, stories, humor, dance and more music. The musicians change nightly, on this night we enjoyed the music of Shelly Campbell playing fiddle and Allan Dewar on piano. Other performers often drop in so in addition, a talented young dancer demonstrated step-dancing and a local gentleman taught the audience a gaelic song. Later in the evening, audience members were invited to join in a dance set. You will leave with a smile on your face, guaranteed.

You can find live music around Cape Breton every day of the week. On a Sunday afternoon we stopped at the Red Shoe Pub in Mabou for a late lunch and to our pleasure, we were in time to see Buddy MacMaster, the renowned Cape Breton fiddler. A Sunday afternoon doesn't get much better than this.

Glenora Pub at the Glenora Distillery in Glenville. The Glenora Pub serves a fine pub menu in a comfortable space with a cozy fireplace, live celtic music and a pretty view of the distillery.

The Highwheeler Café on Chebucto Street in Baddeck quickly became our favorite spot for coffee and breakfast, and for tasty box lunches and snacks to take with us on the Cabot Trail.

Water's Edge Cafe, part of Water's Edge Inn in Baddeck, is situated across the road from the lake and is an excellent choice for lunch or dinner. Their chowder is the best. Check the board out front for daily specials.

The Red Shoe Pub in Mabou offers good food as well as good music. Try the Acadian tourtiere, a traditional Nova Scotian savory meat pie.

The town of Baddeck, centrally located on Cape Breton Island, makes a good base for exploring the island.

We stayed at the Telegraph House. Staff are friendly and helpful, but the rooms can be quirky and prone to nighttime street noise. Don't bother with the restaurant. Better places to eat are within walking distance.
	A grand old Victorian. Alexander Graham Bell lodged here in the 1880s.	The guest room in which Bell stayed.

We round out our roadtrip along Nova Scotia's eastern shore and around Halifax.

Taylor Head Provincial Park encompasses a rocky peninsula that juts into the Atlantic Ocean and features miles of coastline and hiking trails.

A deserted beach on Psyche Cove is an ideal spot for lunch.	Hiking trails begin at the north end of the beach.
Trees drip with bearded lichen. These lichen are sensitive to air pollution and can grow only where the air is clean.	A beautiful view along the Bob Bluff trail.

J. Willy Krauch and Sons smokehouse in Tangier is the place to go for mouthwateringly delicious smoked fish. Watch for signs on Highway 7.

Martinique Beach Provincial Park is home to the longest white sandy beach (5 km) in Nova Scotia.

Nova Scotia's premier surfing spot is Lawrencetown Beach. The sun burned off morning fog as we watched the surfing action.

Halifax' Harbourwalk is a 3km boardwalk along the waterfront and makes for a nice leisurely stroll past a mix of wharves, shops and small parks.

Halifax is home to the superb Public Gardens. Established in 1867, these gardens provide a unique Victorian-style retreat from city life. Pick up a gelato at Dio Mio (5670 Spring Garden Rd) on your way to the Gardens.

A Nova Scotia itinerary isn't complete without a vist to Peggy's Cove and its much-photographed lighthouse. If you miss the sign, not to worry, just follow the tour buses.

With busloads of tourists arriving, you won't be alone. But if you use a boulder to your advantage, you can pretend you have the view all to yourself.

Peggy's Cove is more than just the lighthouse. A short walk down the road reveals what Peggy's Cove has always been, a small fishing community.

Some wonderful hiking trails nearby offer the opportunity to explore the jaw-dropping beauty of this area even more, all the while keeping the lighthouse in view.

To pick up this trail, park at N 44° 30.078 W 063° 55.353

For this trail, park at N 44° 29.651 W 063° 53.553 and cross the road.

Harbour Fish 'n Fries on Highway 7 in Musquodoboit Harbour is well-known for its fish and chips.

One of our favorite meals was the one we collected along the way and enjoyed at sunset on the lakeside dock of Elephant's Nest Bed and Breakfast. It was a truly Nova Scotian meal, with smoked salmon from Willy Krauch's, cheese from Foxhill Cheese in Port Williams, and wine from Domaine de Grand Pré.

Sweet Basil Bistro in Halifax was our choice, more than once, for a good meal. At 1866 Upper Water Street.

The Old Triangle Pub in Halifax has loads of cozy Irish pub atmosphere and makes a good spot to relax with a pint after a busy day.

For a meal in Peggy's Cove minus the tourist hordes, follow the sign to Murray's Wharfside Lobster Pound. Place your order inside the shack, choose a table and soak in the laid-back seaside ambience.

We enjoyed the friendly hospitality at Elephant's Nest Bed and Breakfast in Gaetz Brook. Hosts John and June (and their three adorable dogs) welcome guests to the breakfast table in the morning and to snacks and lively conversation in the evening. Their location makes this B&B a good base for exploring both the Eastern Shore and Halifax.

Addtional Nova Scotia links:

Canadian Hydrographic Service For Bay of Fundy tide schedules
Bay of Fundy blog A resident writes about life around the Bay of Fundy
Nova Scotia's Provincial Parks For information about all of Nova Scotia's Provincial Parks
Peggy's Cove webcam Check out this webcam to whet your appetite for a Nova Scotia trip. When you are in Peggy's Cove, stand in view of the webcam then call your friends and wave hello!
Seacoast Escapes For a custom Nova Scotia itinerary tailored to your interests
Atlantic Canada Road Atlas A good driving map for a Nova Scotia roadtrip