Walking in Ireland: The Sheep's Head Way "… water and ground in their extremity." description of the Sheep's Head Peninsula by poet Seamus Heaney

The pleasures of walking are many. Walking provides a respite from our busy lives, slowing the pace so we can start to notice details of the world around us that we might otherwise overlook. We move outdoors and untether ourselves from the demands of daily life. And it feels good! Walking is a wonderful way to explore the Irish countryside whose scenic beauty beckons us to leave the car behind.

On a trip to Ireland in early July, my husband and I included a self-guided walking tour of the Sheep's Head Way. The Sheep's Head Way is one of the Waymarked Ways of Ireland, a series of marked walking routes throughout Ireland. The Sheep's Head Way is a 55 mile/88 km route encompassing the Sheep's Head Peninsula in western county Cork. Starting and ending in Bantry, the trail goes out on the northern (Bantry Bay) side of the peninsula to Sheep's Head (the end of the peninsula), then back to Bantry on the southern (Dunmanus Bay) side. One of the least-known peninsulas in Ireland, Sheep's Head offers varied terrain from rocky ridges to rugged coastline and spectacular views from one side of the peninsula to the other.

Our accommodations were B&Bs along our walking route. Bantry offers a wider variety of accommodations, but once you go further west you'll find B&Bs offering a warm welcome, hospitable hosts and good meals. In fact, most of your meals will be at the B&Bs since there are few restaurants or pubs outside of Bantry (none on the northern side of the peninsula). Our bags were delivered to our B&Bs each day while we walked - a much-appreciated service provided by our B&B hosts!

The Sheep's Head Way is divided into segments so you can start or end at several places along the way. Walking all 55 miles/88 kms is not required! In addition, there are shorter loop walks incorporated into the Sheep's Head Way if time is limited.

You'll want to have good maps with you. We suggest OS maps 85 and 88 (mostly 88) and A Map of the Sheep's Head Way which shows the loop walks and other paths which cross the Sheep's Head Way (look for this when you are in Ireland - we found it at a TI office).

Weather in Ireland can vary quite a bit from day to day and even within one day. We experienced everything from clear, sunny days to drizzly fog to lashing rain. It is windier up on the ridges and at Sheep's Head. To be prepared for changing weather you'll want layers of clothes, rainproof outerwear and sunscreen with you. Waterproof hiking boots are a necessity for walking through wet boggy spots. At the time we were hiking, the peninsula had not received rain for about six weeks and still there were many wet areas. Treat your boots with boot wax (available at outdoor stores) to make them water repellent.

The route is marked with standard waymarkers depicting an image of a walker and an arrow (in yellow) usually on a wood post, though sometimes painted on a stone.

You are not walking on a groomed path but instead are making your way across open countryside from marker to marker. The terrain is varied and usually uneven so suitable footwear is necessary and walking poles are recommended. A compass is helpful in case fog obscures the view of the next marker ahead. We didn't encounter many other hikers as we walked - for the most part we were sharing the route with more sheep than people! For geocaching fans, there are two caches along the route: The Flying Dutchman and Sheep's Head.

Day 1: Bantry to Glanlough (7 miles/12 kms walked)

From the Goat's Path (the main road on the peninsula) a narrow, zigzag road takes you steeply uphill to the top of a ridge which is part of a chain of hills that runs down the center of the peninsula. The route follows the crests of these hills until Glan Lough (Glanlough Lake) comes into view and then takes you back down to a road for a short bit.

up the zigzag road	walking past a stone wall	lunch with a view

If you continue on this road and turn left at the Goat's Path you will come to a delightful B&B, Seamount Farmhouse which makes an ideal stopping point after the day's walk with cheery, spacious rooms and a good meal (and friendly donkeys!).

Seamount Farmhouse	looking out over beautiful gardens, grazing donkeys and Bantry Bay

Day 2: Glanlough to Kilcrohane (12 miles/20 kms walked)

The route leaves the road to go steeply uphill for more ridge-walking today. Your efforts are rewarded all along the way with spectacular views over both bays. The route leaves the hills by following an old zigzag track (once used to access the bogs on the hills) down to the Goat's Path. The rest of today's walk is on the road, starting with a steep climb up a long hill and continuing on the road (leaving the Sheep's Head Way) across the peninsula to Kilcrohane.

looking back at hills walked yesterday	ridge view over Bantry Bay

We stayed for three nights at Reenmore Farmhouse, another 3 miles/5 kms down the road from Kilcrohane. Reenmore is a working sheep and dairy farm on Dunmanus Bay which offers comfortable rooms and tasty meals to guests. (Lodging in Kilcrohane is the closest lodging to Sheep's Head.)

Day 3: Kilcrohane to Tooreen (6 miles/10 kms walked)

Our B&B hosts offer a ride back to where we left the Sheep's Head Way yesterday - much appreciated! Note to geocachers: this is the place to start for the The Flying Dutchman geocache. The route follows grassed-over track and road to the coast and ...

I wish I could describe more but we had to abandon today's walk due to deteriorating stormy weather. We got a ride back to our B&B to dry out and warm up in front of a cozy peat fire.

Day 4: Tooreen to Kilcrohane (12 miles/20 kms walked)

A beautiful day! Our B&B hosts give us a ride to our starting point at Tooreen. Before we begin our day's walk (east), we head west to visit Sheep's Head (which we missed yesterday) for views not to be missed.

path leading to Sheep's Head	Sheep's Head lighthouse

Note to geocachers: this is the area where you'll find the Sheep's Head geocache.
Before leaving Tooreen, do stop at the teashop for a homemade treat (we highly recommend the rhubarb crumble!). From Tooreen, the route ascends quickly to a ridge and then descends for most of the rest of the way past farms and along the coast to Kilcrohane.

heading down to the coast	rugged coastline on Dunmanus Bay

Day 5: Kilcrohane to Durrus (10 miles/17 kms walked)

The route follows roads for much of the way but also takes you through open countryside. In Durrus, you'll find several options for food and drink. We recommend The Long Boat Bar for a meal.

grassy countryside	downtown Durrus

From Durrus, the Sheep's Head Way continues back to Bantry. We took a cab to Bantry instead, where we spent a leisurely day. There are a variety of cafés, pubs and restaurants in Bantry, we recommend O'Connor's Seafood,

and especially, the Snug Bar for fine pub food and drink (try the mussels from Bantry Bay). The Snug fills up quickly at dinnertime so arrive early or make a reservation.

For assistance with planning a walking tour of the Sheep's Head Way:
Tailor-Made Tours
Hillside Walks