When the first day of spring arrives and snow is still falling, well, the only thing I can think of when I look out the window is "I'd rather be on a beach!". And so my husband and I had the good fortune to spend a week in early April exploring the sunny island of Culebra.
Culebra (pronounced koo-LAY-bruh) is a small island off the east coast of Puerto Rico, located midway between Puerto Rico and St. Thomas of the US Virgin Islands. Because it is part of Puerto Rico, a passport is not required for travel to and from Culebra for US citizens.
Travel to Culebra is through San Juan International Airport to San Juan Isla Grande Airport, a short taxi ride away ($16 fixed fee with the Taxi Touristicos outside the airport), from which the small inter-island airlines fly. From Isla Grande Airport, we flew on a Vieques Air Link flight to Culebra.
At the check-in counter, Vieques Air Link shows two flights a day to Culebra
With six passengers onboard, this plane is full
The 30-minute flight to Culebra affords beautiful views of the Caribbean
Then things get more exciting! Check out this video of a typical landing at Culebra airport where the plane passes between two scrub-covered hills then turns sharply left for the runway -
We all applauded at the end of our flight - it's more fun than an amusement park ride!
Once you're on Culebra, then what? Well, there are a few things you won't find here: high-rise hotels, all-inclusive megaresorts, golf courses, casinos, nightclubs, cruise ships. If you are looking to be pampered and entertained, this island is not for you. What will you find here? A laid-back pace, accommodations at friendly guesthouses and rental villas, good food at very casual restaurants, abundant nature and wildlife, near-empty beaches, fantastic snorkeling - read on.
We started by picking up our rental vehicle from Jerry's Jeeps, across the street from the airport.
Jerry's office (phone 787-742-0587)
Jerry's motto is "It's not a heap, it's a Jerry's Jeep"
Why rent a jeep? Not all roads are paved
Jerry is great to work with -- he gave us a warm welcome, one of his handy hand-drawn maps and loads of information about where to go.
The map may not make sense now, but after talking to Jerry you'll know your way around the island!
We rented a house through Culebra Island Realty. The house was set in a lush tropical landscape with a spacious deck offering views of Pela Bay and Vieques in the distance.
An interesting feature of the house is that fresh water is provided from a cistern which collects rainwater. Culebra does not have a natural source of fresh water on the island so cisterns are common. We were instructed to be frugal with our water use - not running the water continuously while washing dishes/showering/brushing teeth and not flushing the toilet after every use. In fact, a reminder was posted in the bathroom: "On this isle of sun and fun we never flush for number one!"
A papaya tree outside our door proved to be a battleground between the homeowner and wildlife. Who will get the ripe fruit first? On this day, score one for a pearly-eyed thrasher.
What to do when you are awakened by a chorus of birdsong at sunrise? We went for an early morning hike to the highest point on the east end of the island for terrific views...
of Culebrita and St. Thomas
Good morning, morning!
On other mornings we went kayaking on Pela Bay. The bay becomes shallow which keeps motor boats out, so with our kayaks it was just us and the wildlife. As we floated around the magroves, fish were jumping and birds were diving around us. Diving birds included pelicans, brown boobys and terns.
Culebra's beaches are superb. Playa Flamenco is Culebra's most popular and most beautiful - a graceful arc of silky-soft sand lapped by azure water. This beach is popular with Puerto Ricans during holidays. Located on the windward side of the island, the surf can get rough in the winter.
Playa Flamenco welcomes you
On the path to the beach
Playa Flamenco
Culebra's only campground is located at Playa Flamenco, just steps from the beach
Zoni Beach is located on the east end of the island. With a wide stretch of white sand and very few people, it's another beauty. Also located on the windward side, the surf can get rough here too. Leatherback turtles use Zoni Beach as a nesting area in the winter months.
We have the beach (almost) to ourselves
Turtle nesting areas are protected
Much of the leeward side of the island is a protected marine reserve and offers fabulous snorkeling in reefs right off the beach.
Two of the best snorkeling spots, Tamarindo Grande and Carlos Rosario, are accessible by a 20-minute hike from the parking lot at Flamenco beach. Stay on the path, a danger sign warns of unexploded ordnance in the area. Culebra was once used for target practice by the US military.
This chained gate marks the beginning of the path.
We saw deer in the woods as we walked. Watch out for prickly bushes along the path.
Tamarindo Grande is the first beach you'll come to and looks out on Luis Peña Cay. Walk a little further for Carlos Rosario.
While Tamarindo Grande beach is beautiful... what's underwater is even better
Hey, guess what I saw!
Snorkeling here reveals an underwater world teeming with variety and activity. The many colorful sea fans are marvelous. It is mesmerizing to watch them sway with the current and to be gently rocked as you swim by the same current. Reef fish included angelfish, parrotfish, butterflyfish, grunt, snapper, southern stingray (and many fish I can't yet identify). Others reported seeing squid and turtles.
A day of hiking, kayaking and snorkeling can really work up an appetite. Good options for dining can be found in the town of Dewey. The colorful Mamacita's is located on the canal that runs through Dewey and the restaurant is accessible on the water as well as on the road.
I thought the signs at Mamacita's saying "Do not feed the iguanas" were a joke until we were there at lunchtime. Iguanas swim to the restaurant, climb up and wait for handouts.
On your way to Mamacita's, stop in down the street at Jorge Acevedo's studio and check out his Culebra-inspired art.
Another place for a tasty dinner in Dewey is Barbara Rosa's. This is very casual dining - place your order at the counter and wait for your name to be called. Don't let the casual atmosphere fool you, the food here is mighty good. Arrive early or you won't get a table. Bring your own beer/wine.
